Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Turnagain Arm Trail - Where We Met Wildlife on the Cliffs


Hey Tribe,

The bear was right in front of me and I couldn’t even see it.  Keep that in mind as you read my tale of another encounter with Ursus americanus.


A beautiful day deserves a beautiful hike.  TheRocketScientist invited me to join him and his two dogs for a hike along Turnagain Arm trail, which has scenic views of Cook Inlet and the Chugach Mountains.  Who could say no to that?  Fly spent the day at work with me and then, after work, she and I drove over to TheRocketScientist’s house where we climbed into his truck and headed south down the highway: enjoying the warm summer sunshine and the knowledge that the sun wouldn’t set for several hours.

See what I mean?

We parked at the McHugh trailhead and set off down, or rather up, the trail towards Rainbow Creek, about 4 miles away.  The trail parallels the highway, which parallels Turnagain Arm (the famous dead-end channel that Captain Cook’s crew navigated while trying to find the Northwest Passage and had to turn around again, poor fellows); the narrow trail climbs above the highway to a dizzying height and at a few sections clings to the side of the mountain with a narrow margin for hiker error. 







Dall’s Sheep are a common sight in this area and frequently cause motoring tourists to suddenly brake and swerve to the side of the road for souvenir photos of the ghostly cliff dwellers.  Fly, leading our merry group, ran headlong into one of the sheep while it was grazing on some summer grass.  Both were surprised and not sure what to make of the other.  A staring contest ensued as both sized up each other, before the sheep stamped a front hoof in brazenness and darted over the edge of the cliff.  We gasped and hastily carefully made our way to the edge and peered over, looking for our daring friend.  It was safe, of course, standing with its herd - which was looking at us with judgy expressions.  Apparently, they resented our presence up there in their rocky domain.

Hello friend.

Where'd he go?

Hey guys, don't mind us, just passing through.

Fly gives her best sheep impression.

A wildfire swept through this section last year.


Then the trail led us down into the dense woods.  The trail was deep and overgrown with grasses and cow parsnip.  I couldn’t see Fly in front of me, as we waded our way along the trail and occasionally couldn’t see TheRocketScientist either.



Terrible photo, but look at that happy face!

TheRocketScientist and three dogs are standing there...somewhere.

It was cool and quiet in the woods and we were the only ones on the trail.  Or so we thought.  About a half-mile from Rainbow Creek, we encountered a sow black bear and her large cub that were coming down the trail in the opposite direction.  We were mutually surprised and our group jumped back in alarm as the sow hustled her cub up a nearby tree.  In fact, I couldn’t even see the bears until finally spotting the tree climber, but there’s no mistaking the sounds a bear makes when thundering through the woods in close proximity to me.  Fly’s whole being was electrocuted with energy as she got a scent and visual confirmation of her natural enemy.  She stood in front of me, at the ready, and I stood with my hand on her collar after un-clasping the leash.  We were braced for an attack, should the sow charge us.  Happily, Momma was content to simply glare menacingly at us in defiance.  I am loathe to let Fly get in a tussle with a momma bear, so I was happy with her decision. The dogs barked their anger as TheRocketScientist and I assessed the situation.  Clearly, we were not going any further, so we slowly backed our way down the trail a few paces before feeling safe enough to turn our backs on the bears and retrace our steps. TheRocketScientist and his pups led the way and Fly brought up the rear, unwilling to turn her back on the enemy until we were a goodly distance away.


So close to Rainbow.

Brave Fly.


It was probably a good thing that we turned around when we did, from a timing standpoint, because the park locks the gate at 9:00pm and we had to hustle to return to the parking lot before the truck was locked in for the night. 

8:45pm, if you can believe it in the Land of the Midnight Sun.



We didn’t reach our intended destination, blocked a mere half mile from our goal, but the evening had been filled with adventure and beautiful Alaskan views, so I was happy with our 7 mile excursion.



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